CHOOSE YOUR FIRST COSTUME: TIPS AND ADVICE

The suit is no longer, for a long time, the daily attire of the majority of men, replaced by jeans / shirt or jeans / t-shirt, sometimes accompanied by a jacket. However, most of us will have to wear a suit, whether at work, for a festive occasion, or just for the sake of dressing elegantly. But once it’s time to buy your first suit, you’re sometimes helpless. Here are some tips for choosing your first suit. First of all, it must be remembered that the choice of a costume will take into consideration three criteria: the cut, the hue and the fabric, in that order.

The cup

The cut is the most important element because it is she who will determine your pace. The term “cut” covers both the notions of size and style. First, the costume will have to be chosen to your size. For that I refer you to Tony’s article: How to choose a suit at its size. I will only recall here the main points. First, the size of a jacket is determined by the 1/2 bust. For example, a size 52 will correspond to a bust of about 104 cm, a 54 to a bust of 108 cm, etc … However the size will also be decisive for choosing the size. Shoulders share the entire structure of the jacket, and an adequate shoulder width is the sine qua non for the suit to fall well. Especially since it is an inretouchable element. For the rest, I only take the basics: the sleeves fall just above the wrist (revealing 1cm of shirt), the jacket arrives at the bottom of the buttocks, and the pants reaches the ankles or just touching the shoe, either by breaking only once, but never corking. You can also: buy men suites in Canada.

“Remember at the fitting that cutting defects appear in the back and not on the front” Michael Ohnona, tailor

Make sure that by definition the ready-to-wear is a standard size, and except exceptional exception, the costume will need to be retouched to suit you perfectly. I said retouched, not cut. It must remain light, from the realm of adjustment. It would be illusory to want to lose a size to a jacket.

Regarding the cut (in the sense of the general style), the 2-piece straight suit with 2 buttons is a classic that is perfect for a first suit (even the first few). On this basis, you can then play on the shape of the pockets (ticket pocket, inclined pockets), the shape of the backs (right or treble), and the number of slots … to bring diversity. To further increase the variation of possible outfits with a suit, you can also opt for a 3-piece suit. Depending on whether you wear the vest or not, the costume will have a different face (however, be careful that the pants are cut properly, ie with the size high enough so that the shirt does not appear between the vest and pants).

The current trend is with fine lapels, short jackets and narrow pants. Beware of excess in these measures, and keep in mind the precept of Paul Poiret “When a fashion is pushed to its extreme, it is that it is about to start in the other direction.” Know, therefore, that you are right and do not go too far away from classical proportions; 2 cm lapels and jackets just under the belt will soon appear as dated as the giant shoulders and extra-wide cuffs of the 80s.

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